The last five years have seen the rise of a new food
phenomenon in Cape Town, the organic "food market". Quite why it has
taken so long to reach our shores is unknown since these markets have existed
literally for hundreds of years. The Borough Market on the south bank of the
Thames River in London has been in existence for more than 250 years. The Old
Biscuit Mill has been running successfully for many years in Woodstock as the
lone ranger of this food genre with no takers to expand the idea further across
the Peninsula. Thankfully however the idea has gained traction with some local
entrepreneurs and food enthusiasts, with the result that food markets have
arrived, and have taken the local population by storm.
The format is simple. Assemble a collection of 30 or 40
food traders at a single venue, provide seating and background music. Open the
doors at nine o'clock on a Saturday morning and wind things down at around two
in the afternoon. Repeat every week.
Of course there is more to it than that, but the formula
remains common to all. The success lies in the personal nature of each trader,
the quality of their ingredients, and the passion they feel for their
particular food. "Organic" and "artisan" are words you will
see and hear all the time. They emphasise the freshness and health benefits
whilst incorporating the individual skills of the trader. I have always tried
to eat healthily, following a loose principle of avoiding anything which comes
in a bag, box or a tin. I am not fanatical about this, but I do try to adhere to
the basic formula. Thus far it has served me well and I attribute much of my
current health status to this guideline.
The eating areas of food markets generally take on a very
social and communal spirit with visitors sharing their tables with complete strangers,
the common bond being their enjoyment of the food and atmosphere. Most markets
incorporate a wide variety of food types, often with an ethnic flavour, ranging
from handmade burgers, salads, sushi, spring rolls, pancakes and pastries, all
accompanied by artisan beers, coffees and fresh fruit drinks. In between one
will find traders offering breads, cheeses, deli meats, sauces and relishes
which one can use to construct a meal of your own making.
The assembly of a range of traders under one roof is carried
through to the customers who often use the market venue as a meeting place to
get together with friends and family. The range and variety of foods on display
ensure that none of the party members are limited in their choices. Everyone
will get to eat and drink what they enjoy most, be it meat or vegetarian, hot
or cold, traditional or slightly exotic!
The venues vary from scenic parkland settings underneath
large indigenous trees, to warehouses located in light industrial suburbs. What
may initially appear to be an uninviting venue can be transformed into a warm
and welcoming environment with the addition of wooden trestle tables, straw
bales, the tantalising aroma of different dishes, and be accompanying chatter
of a few hundred satisfied customers!
These food markets have a positive spin off for the
disabled community. Many of them are wheelchair accessible, providing plentiful
parking as well as toilet facilities, within environments which are level and
easy to navigate. The accessible nature of the venues also open up
opportunities for disabled traders to run successful businesses of their own,
free of the potential physical constraints of corporate 8-to-5 office hours.
Concerns over a lack of office block accessibility and public transport are greatly
diminished.
What effect this is having on the more traditional
restaurants remains to be seen, but clearly the playing field is changing. On
more than one occasion we have visited a local market on a Saturday morning to
meet with friends and enjoy a casual lunch, finding it full to the brim. Later
that evening we have visited a local restaurant and found them to be relatively
empty. A sizeable percentage of consumers are looking towards healthier eating
alternatives and a different dining experience, one leaning more towards a more
social and informal environment. Food markets have arrived and all indications
are that they are here to stay.
PLEASE NOTE : The
author has no shareholding in a food market, but he does enjoy visiting them
and sampling what they have to offer!
