THE FOOD MARKET PHENOMENON

The last five years have seen the rise of a new food phenomenon in Cape Town, the organic "food market". Quite why it has taken so long to reach our shores is unknown since these markets have existed literally for hundreds of years. The Borough Market on the south bank of the Thames River in London has been in existence for more than 250 years. The Old Biscuit Mill has been running successfully for many years in Woodstock as the lone ranger of this food genre with no takers to expand the idea further across the Peninsula. Thankfully however the idea has gained traction with some local entrepreneurs and food enthusiasts, with the result that food markets have arrived, and have taken the local population by storm.

The format is simple. Assemble a collection of 30 or 40 food traders at a single venue, provide seating and background music. Open the doors at nine o'clock on a Saturday morning and wind things down at around two in the afternoon. Repeat every week.

Of course there is more to it than that, but the formula remains common to all. The success lies in the personal nature of each trader, the quality of their ingredients, and the passion they feel for their particular food. "Organic" and "artisan" are words you will see and hear all the time. They emphasise the freshness and health benefits whilst incorporating the individual skills of the trader. I have always tried to eat healthily, following a loose principle of avoiding anything which comes in a bag, box or a tin. I am not fanatical about this, but I do try to adhere to the basic formula. Thus far it has served me well and I attribute much of my current health status to this guideline.

The eating areas of food markets generally take on a very social and communal spirit with visitors sharing their tables with complete strangers, the common bond being their enjoyment of the food and atmosphere. Most markets incorporate a wide variety of food types, often with an ethnic flavour, ranging from handmade burgers, salads, sushi, spring rolls, pancakes and pastries, all accompanied by artisan beers, coffees and fresh fruit drinks. In between one will find traders offering breads, cheeses, deli meats, sauces and relishes which one can use to construct a meal of your own making.

The assembly of a range of traders under one roof is carried through to the customers who often use the market venue as a meeting place to get together with friends and family. The range and variety of foods on display ensure that none of the party members are limited in their choices. Everyone will get to eat and drink what they enjoy most, be it meat or vegetarian, hot or cold, traditional or slightly exotic!

The venues vary from scenic parkland settings underneath large indigenous trees, to warehouses located in light industrial suburbs. What may initially appear to be an uninviting venue can be transformed into a warm and welcoming environment with the addition of wooden trestle tables, straw bales, the tantalising aroma of different dishes, and be accompanying chatter of a few hundred satisfied customers!

These food markets have a positive spin off for the disabled community. Many of them are wheelchair accessible, providing plentiful parking as well as toilet facilities, within environments which are level and easy to navigate. The accessible nature of the venues also open up opportunities for disabled traders to run successful businesses of their own, free of the potential physical constraints of corporate 8-to-5 office hours. Concerns over a lack of office block accessibility and public transport are greatly diminished.

What effect this is having on the more traditional restaurants remains to be seen, but clearly the playing field is changing. On more than one occasion we have visited a local market on a Saturday morning to meet with friends and enjoy a casual lunch, finding it full to the brim. Later that evening we have visited a local restaurant and found them to be relatively empty. A sizeable percentage of consumers are looking towards healthier eating alternatives and a different dining experience, one leaning more towards a more social and informal environment. Food markets have arrived and all indications are that they are here to stay.

PLEASE NOTE :  The author has no shareholding in a food market, but he does enjoy visiting them and sampling what they have to offer!